Folk costume

From top, left to right: Filipinos (Igorot), Kenyans, Ukrainians and Peruvians dressed in traditional garments

Folk costume, traditional dress, traditional attire or folk attire, is clothing associated with a particular ethnic group, nation or region, and is an expression of cultural, religious or national identity. If the clothing is that of an ethnic group, it may also be called ethnic clothing or ethnic dress. Traditional clothing often has two forms: everyday wear, and formal wear. The word "costume" in this context is sometimes considered pejorative, as the word has more than one meaning, and thus "clothing", "dress", "attire" or "regalia" can be substituted without offense.[1][2][3][4]

Following the rise of romantic nationalism[5] in parts of Europe, pre-industrial peasantry came to serve as models for all that appeared genuine and desirable. Garments that evoke peasant dress were made from traditional pre-industrial textiles.

In areas where Western styles of dress have become typical, traditional garments are often worn during special events or celebrations, particularly those connected to cultural tradition or heritage. International events may cater to non-Western attendees with a compound dress code such as "business suit or national dress".

There are also contemporary societies in which traditional garments are required by sumptuary laws. In Bhutan, for example, the driglam namzha mandates what citizens should wear in public spaces.[6] Bhutanese citizens must wear the traditional clothing of the Ngalop people, including a gho and kera for men and a kira and wonju for women,[7] including when on official business, in schools and institutions, and at official occasions and assemblies".[8] These restrictions apply to when people are in or near "monastic fortresses (dzong), monasteries (gompa) and temples (lhakhang), and in government buildings. Karin Altmann, a scholar of textile arts, states that the intent behind this law "was to prevent specific features of Bhutanese culture from disappearing," and "to emphasize national identity",[8] but it has contributed to much conflict due to the ethnic and cultural diversity of Bhutan.[9]

  1. ^ See wikt:costume#Usage notes[better source needed]
  2. ^ Reese, Debbie (15 May 2007). "The word "costume" and American Indians". American Indians in Children's Literature. Retrieved 9 November 2023.
  3. ^ Arce, Isis (4 February 2019). "Native Regalia is NOT a Costume!". Voices of Native Youth. Retrieved 9 November 2023.
  4. ^ Higgins, Julissa (7 May 2018). "Opinion: Why It's Time to Stop Using the Word "Garb"". The Fashion Studies Journal. Retrieved 9 November 2023.
  5. ^ Martinez, Gimeno; Leerssen, Joep (2022). "Dress, design : Introductory survey essay". Encyclopedia of Romantic Nationalism in Europe. Amsterdam: Study Platform on Interlocking Nationalisms. Retrieved November 7, 2023.
  6. ^ Shah, Shalini (October 31, 2016). "Bhutan's Queen Mother Sangay Choden Wangchuck on weaves in everyday life". Vogue India. Retrieved November 3, 2023.
  7. ^ Lhamo, Passang (April 2, 2019). "Driglam Namzha: Why The Bhutanese Do What They Do". Daily Bhutan. Retrieved November 3, 2023.
  8. ^ a b Altmann, Karin (2016). Fabric of Life - Textile Arts in Bhutan: Culture, Tradition and Transformation. Berlin, München, Boston: De Gruyter. pp. 30–32. doi:10.1515/9783110428612. ISBN 9783110428612.
  9. ^ "Lhotshampas". Minority Rights. 6 May 2020. Retrieved 10 November 2023.

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